Lockdown Armchair Travel – Peru – Lima, Machu Picchu, Cusco, Puno – September 2011

Still stuck in our tier systems (and likely to be for some time) let’s have another lockdown armchair travel trip, and P is for a number of places, but first, Peru. We spent a week there in September 2011 at the start of our South American tour. So, what do you think of, when you think of Peru? Quite possibly this place:

Machu PicchuBut more of that shortly. Our week started off in the capital Lima, a thriving and attractive place, full of striking architecture.

Plaza MayorYou see that yellow and black combination all round the Plaza Mayor and the city centre. The ornate enclosed balconies can be breathtakingly beautiful.

BalconiesAnd the Plaza Mayor is definitely the centre of attention.

Plaza MayorBut there’s also a bustling market

Market

Cheese

OlivesIn the Miraflores district, you can meet dinosaurs at Kennedy Park

DinoWe also visited the charming Casa de Aliaga, the city’s oldest colonial mansion

Casa de AliagaWent here

Bar CordanoFor two of these

Pisco SourThe Pisco Sour. It tastes much nicer than it sounds. We kept out of the way of this lot:

PoliciaAnd also had a very enjoyable stroll around Miraflores, which is upmarket and delightful – and a great coastline. You don’t tend to think of the sea when it comes to Peru, but it’s not to be missed.

Miraflores coastFrom Lima we flew to Cuzco, and, in order to acclimatise to the altitude, immediately headed for the Sacred Valley, which is at a much lower level – then you slowly begin to climb during the next few days. The Sacred Valley is quite touristy, so you see plenty of these:

AlpacasAnd these

LlamaAnd these

SpinningThis gentleman shows us the traditional art of spinning. So much more refined when you do it without an exercise bike. In Pisac, we visited another market

Pisac marketBut the highlight of the Sacred Valley is Ollantaytambo, famous for its Inca ruins, as it was once the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti.

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo

The next day we started to make our way towards Machu Picchu. To do this we took the train to Aguas Calientes.

Train to Aguas CalientesA picturesque journey – we reckoned these people were doing the Inca Trail.

Journey

Until it finally reaches Aguas Calientes.Resting place

And once you’re there, you can’t wait to get to Machu Picchu!

Machu Picchu

MP

We got up early the next morning to see dawn rise over the site

Dawn at Machu PicchuA misty experience!

A misty affairFrom there we walked up Waynu Picchu, which is the mountain opposite Machu Picchu, to get the great view. Wow, what an experience!

Machu Picchu from Waynu PicchuIt’s high. It’s tiring. But so worth it! And what comes up, must go down….

And it’s quite a challenge! Reaching Machu Picchu again gave us a chance for another walk around.

From there, it was back on the train and heading for Cusco, the capital of the Inca Empire, and, despite our best efforts, the place where altitude sickness finally got us. Nevertheless we still enjoyed it.

Plaza de ArmasThe Plaza de Armas is the focus of the city centre, an expansive and beautiful town square.

Plaza de Armasand, surprise, surprise….

Plaza de Armas

The police get about on segways – makes it much easier for them!

Police

This is the beautiful Santo Domingo Convent

And a local school

The next day we took a tour to Pikillacta and Sacsayhuaman. At Pikillacta, you see an archaelogical site of the Wari people

PikillactaBut it was Sacsayhuaman that I was really interested to see.

SacsayhuamanThe construction is amazing, as there is no mortar between those stones

From the top you get a great view of Cusco

We also visited the amazing holy site of Qenko.

And I spent the next day in bed with Altitude Sickness! After Cusco, it was time to get on another train

The Andean Explorer, which would take us to the border city of Puno, travelling through beautiful but totally empty scenery.

Puno is a city with many thousands of students, and they were having an evening parade. We were warned not to go into Puno at night, because it wasn’t safe. But we couldn’t resist.

Felt perfectly safe to us! So I’ll leave you with a few typically Peruvian scenes and vibes.

Thanks for reading! Stay safe!

 

South America – Peru – Lima

The reason why I haven’t done much blogging for the past few weeks was because Mrs Chrisparkle and I took our long awaited trip to South America last month. We visited Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Brazil, and it was a great personal ambition for me to go to those places, especially Machu Picchu and Buenos Aires, which were two locations, the prospect of which had enthralled me since I were a wee lad. So I’m going to let you in on some of our experiences, and if you find it useful in case you’re planning a trip to South America, well I’m very pleased to be of some assistance!

Casa Andina Private Collection Our hotel was the Casa Andina Private Collection in the Miraflores district of the city. It’s well positioned for local parks and eateries and is in a relatively safe touristy area. It’s clean and comfortable if a little soulless. The hotels and the tourist agencies aren’t keen on your wandering off on your own after dark or in certain parts of the city, Kennedy Parkbut it didn’t stifle our natural wanderlust so on the first morning we discovered the Central Park and Kennedy Park which is amusingly stuffed full of dinosaur replicas, which can make for jolly photo opportunities. The area round the park has many useful shops too if you forget your toiletries or need some souvenirs.

Lima MarketWe had an organised city tour that morning. We started off in the local market. A real market – fruit and veg, fish and meat, spices and all things edible; colourful and fascinating, it’s a place to see local people doing normal things. You can also become acquainted with some of the more unusual ingredients you’ll be eating later on.

Plaza MayorThen we arrived at the Plaza Mayor. It’s Lima’s grandest place – a large open, airy, bright square, surrounded by attractive buildings – including those great ornate balconies that yearn to be photographed. The four sides of the square contain the Cathedral, the Town Hall, the Government Palace and the Archbishop’s Palace. Riot police You can protest anywhere you want in Lima apart from the Plaza Mayor, and to enforce this there are riot police just hanging about on every corner. Looks a little bizarre, but they are happy to pose for photographs. SchoolkidsWe also met a crocodile of schoolchildren being marched through the centre of the Plaza, always an enjoyable excuse for waves, hellos, holas and “where you froms”!

Casa de AliagaJust off the Plaza Mayor is the Casa de Aliaga. It’s a beautiful old house, the oldest inhabited building in the city. You can go around it and admire the furnishings. It’s still in the same family for 17 generations apparently. An oasis of peace in an otherwise pretty lively area.

Pisco SourBy then it was lunchtime so we were taken to the Bar Cordano for a couple of Pisco Sours and an introduction to Peruvian food. Pisco Sours are great! Really tasty, and, regrettably, the stronger they are the better they taste! It’s a cocktail made from a local liqueur wine and it’s well worth the indulgence. We also tried the staple local starter, a causa. It looks a bit like a trifle without the cream, but what you first think is custard is in fact mashed potato and it usually comes with meat or fish fillings. It’s gorgeous – and coeliac heaven, as Mrs C was delighted to discover.

Huaca PucllanaThat was the end of our organised tour. But we weren’t going to end the day there. Along with a couple of our intrepid co-travellers, Dhru and Kannen, we made our way to Huaca Pucllana. It’s described as a Pre-Incan administrative and colonial centre and is still only partly unearthed. It’s quite an awe-inspiring sight, as it covers a pretty sizeable area, and the grey drabness of the original bricks, although not attractive in itself, makes a stunning overall impression. Pre-IncansAs a tourist attraction, it suffers a little from having a small menagerie of local animals and garden of Inca type crops, which seem a bit artificial in comparison. But it’s definitely worth a visit, and you can pose for daft photos with models of the original pre-Incans working on the construction.

Paragliders on the ClifftopsAfter that we took a leisurely walk along the Clifftops and saw modern Lima at its best. The place is popular with paragliders, which makes for an exhilarating and colourful scene. You see the well-heeled locals taking their children out for games and walks, the courting couples in the Love Park, very exclusive looking apartments,Love Park and a big seafront entertainment and shopping centre called Larcomar. It all makes a very striking contrast with some of the poorer districts on the outskirts of the city. LarcomarI’d definitely recommend a trip to the Clifftops to get a different perspective on Lima.

In the evening we braved the Central Park and discovered El Tigre restaurant. Sitting outside as though it were the Champs Elysées, I had a Cerveza and Mrs C another Pisco Sour. We then had a bottle of local red wine, which was very nice and reasonably priced. We must have had something to eat as well…. It’s gone from my memory now but I know it was good. Lima by nightWe strolled back to the hotel through the park and all the night-time art sellers and food stalls. It was an excellent end to a very enjoyable day in Lima. If you’re going to Peru, you’ll probably start your trip here. Enjoy the comfort of being at sea-level while it lasts, as the rest of Peru is definitely uphill!